Brasil

From Left: Sambố at Calaf; stand-up paddle surfing on Lake Paranoá; entrance ramp khổng lồ the presidential Planallớn Palace.Credit...Far left: Nadia Shira Cohen for The Thành Phố New York Times & Seth Kugel for The Thủ đô New York Times

DESPITE the modernistic monuments by the legendary Osoto Niemeyer, Brazil’s retro-futuristic capital đô thị — erected on an expanse of dry plains in central Brazil in the late 1950s và ’60s — has generally drawn few visitors who didn’t have business with the federal government. But as Brazil’s economy booms and its world influence increases, Brasília is coming of age, gaining a new museum here, a cool bridge there, top-shelf restaurants everywhere. Brasília is also safer and calmer than Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo, unless you count the căng thẳng of trying to lớn understvà its maddening address system. Adding to lớn the charm are awe-inspiring sunsets, samtía hot spots & something even the greademo urban planners in the world couldn’t have given it upon its inauguration in 1960: a half-century of tradition và history.

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Friday

4 p.m.1) CONGRESS WITH NIEMEYER

6 p.m.2) SUNSET FROM A SHRINE

The sunmix in Brasília is beautiful from just about anywhere, but the best place of all to catch it is at the Ermidomain authority Dom Bosco (QI 29, Lago Sul), a Niemeyer-designed shrine across the artificial Lake Paranoá from the Pilot Plan. The lookout attracts a daily crowd that melts away once the sun is gone. Don’t follow the masses: stichồng it out with the stray couples (& coconut water vendors) and catch the stunning oranges and reds and lavenders that fill the sky about 20 minutes later.

8 p.m.3) BAR HOPPING


Saturday

9 a.m.4) SOUPIE, ANYONE?

Noon5) NORTHEASTERN BUFFET



2 p.m.

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6) MODERNIST WORSHIP

4 p.m.7) SUNSET SAMBA


9 p.m.8) COPENHAGEN ON PARANOá

Sunday

9 a.m.9) PETIT DéJEUNER

10:30 a.m.10) SENHORA PRESIDENTE

Head baông xã khổng lồ the Praça dos Três Poderes for a tour of the Planallớn Palace, the work space of President Dilma Rousseff. The public spaces are filled with Brazilian art & modernist furniture by the celebrated Brazilian designer Sérgio Rodrigues. But that’s not all: you can also see the room where the cabinet meets, and even peek into the president’s office.

Noon11) THE ANTI-BRASíLIA

There’s barely a trace of poverty or even of the working class in Brasília. But that’s an illusion: the poorer residents of the Federal District live sầu in “satellite cities,” dense clusters of high-rise apartment buildings that dot Brasília’s horizon. For a taste of life as it is really lived, head 30 minutes out of town to lớn Ceilândia, where the central feira, or market (Avenida Hélio Prates between Via M Um và Via M Dois) hums Wednesday through Sunday. For about 7 reais, food stands offer huge plates of northeastern specialties — the real organs & bone marrow of it. Under the same roof you’ll find bakers, fruit sellers, discount clothing, tobacteo salesmen and butchers. If Brasília is a modern Brazilian dream, Ceilândia is modern Brazilian reality.

IF YOU GO